This year’s collection from the Ulyana Sergeenko Fashion House marked the milestone of a decade from this extraordinary designer who has captured the attention and respect of the fashion world. Vetted by her inclusion as an official Haute Couture Week participant in 2015 by the Supervisory Board of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, Ulyana’s creations infuse her own unique creative vision with traditional Russian techniques and styles.
Accompanying her 2020-2021 Fall/Winter collection were a series of videos created by Andrey Efimov which generated a massive response online; a collaboration Ms. Sergeenko has chosen to repeat for this year’s Spring/Summer 2021-2022 line.
If possible, the results are even more remarkable. Tradition and technology meld with symbiotic respect in these videos which display the artists behind every aspect of these creations while also being imbued with the reverence for glamour so due. These videos, which premiered to hundreds of thousands of viewers at a time on the Couture Fashion Federation website online (https://fhcm.paris/en/ ), are the ideal complement to satiate a palette which is complex and curious.
Andrey was something of a victim to his previous work in that the Fall/Winter 2020-2021 videos were so universally lauded that the new line demanded something at least in part similar to these. Efimov reveals, “To be honest I did not want to do the same video, but the success of the previous one had eclipsed the whole team and we had to compromise, the design team has developed new elements of graphics integrated into the video, namely roses and lianas, red lines in the art deco style – a new element which was not in the previous series of videos.”
A notable difference in the new videos is that the “wow effect” takes place in the beginning by starting with the fashion show. The completely new collection is complemented by rhythmic motifs and sound design created specifically for the video (by a composer collaborating with Andrey) for an aggressive tone. The second video in the series is more lighthearted and conveys a respect and affinity for the skilled team members involved in the process. This concept is expanded in the final video which reflects the incredible number of people involved in this creative process.
Respect for tradition is a common theme in these videos and the designs of Ulyana Sergeenko; not something typically expected in an industry which seemingly seeks constant reinvention. This year’s collection was inspired by the image of Vera Kholodnaya – the most famous Russian actress of silent film. Hairstyles from cinema of the 1920s-1940s are present alongside this present day fashion collection that incorporates the same embroidering techniques and styling approach which Ms. Sergeenko has embraced.
The use of graphics (red roses for example) superimposed on the screen serves as a framing for the models and adds dashes of color. Embroidered purses and dresses that border on lingerie are seen. Bold red evening gowns clutch one’s attention while Art-Deco era red graphics appear on the screen. White vine graphics complement the white gowns. Music, color, and pace serve as the counterpoint to the designs of Ulyana which appear here.
At the same time, a great deal of time is spent focusing on the many skilled specialists who are a part of these creations from glass-blowing to embroidery and the creation of feature items like beads and jewelry. Andrey Efimov’s passion is palpable when viewing these videos, establishing a strong emotional conduit.
He describes, “The most interesting part for me was immersing myself in this forgotten culture of craftsmanship and jewelry, which has no analogues in Russia, and it was a pleasure to be a part of that beautiful team. I would love to keep moving in the direction where dying crafts can be revived through the world of high fashion.”
“The glass blowing process in particular was fascinating to me. The jewelry in the dresses is created by craftsmen in the town of Gus Khrustalny in Russia where real crystal is produced. Ordinary rugged men blow everything with their lungs, then temper, break and grind. I have shown in detail how the whole process works so the end consumer is aware of how time-consuming work is.”
Writer: Arlen Gann